Before I go much farther, I think I need to clarify that this wonderful event took place not in Newfoundland (though within sight of it) but in France. Now if this sounds crazy, it is time to pull out your Atlas and brush up on geography and history. The French island archipelago of St. Pierre and Miquelon lies within sight of Newfoundland’s south coast (on a clear day!). It is the last stronghold of the French Empire in the new world, negotiated out of British control by an enterprising French government who sought to lay claim to some portion of the great North Atlantic fishery in perpetuity. Perpetuity being a fisheries myth – the islands are also subject to the cod moratorium that has decimated Newfoundland’s economy – St. Pierre and Miquelon are facing major challenges of their own. The islands are totally dependent on “la metropole” (which is the local French people’s way of referring to the other, bigger stronger France across the ocean) for most aspects of their existence, along with container shipments from Halifax and St. John’s, though even these seem unreliable.
All these societal challenges, however, were totally lost on us as we hiked through the spectacular barrens of St. Pierre Island with our new friends Christelle and Yanis, and one of their two boys Oihan. It was the other son, Elouan, stuck back at home and not allowed to hike, who unintentionally helped foster this friendship. Back in June, Elouan had a ruptured appendix that went from bad to worse and he was shipped to the Janeway Children’s Hospital in St. John’s. Elouan ended up spending several weeks in the room next door to Anouk’s when we were in for her burns. Our two families were pretty intrigued by the fellow Francophones next door and struck up conversations. It is hard for friendships to flower under hospital circumstances but Rich and I commented several times “they seem like our people” (our perhaps not very PC code for anyone who appears to have a similar lifestyle and political views, anyone with whom we’d love to spend more time, given the chance).
Christelle and her family welcomed us into their homes and lives as if we were long lost friends. Her Papa provided the shuttle service after the hike, her sister Janick and brother-in-law Geroges offered wine and dinner of caught-that-day mackerel, and Oihan and Elouan offered Anouk true friendship that has her still smiling days later (if we say the name Oihan, she gets the warmest, cutest little happy friend smile, a smile she had not shared until Oihan!)
I love St. Pierre. When you wander the streets, which we did both by bike and on foot, there is no sign of economic challenge and I would not have known had our friends not explained. Instead, La Place Charles DeGaulle is crawling with flirting teenagers (including two girls who taught Anouk how to kick a soccer ball) and mothers pushing baby carriages. The stores, when they are open before and after lunch, are full of activity, and the bookstore (the one store that emptied my wallet) has an adult and children’s selection that implies the populace is active, and thriving. Lunch at the café was packed with residents and tourists alike enjoying a delicious taste of the old country: gallette aux pallourde – or savoury scallop crepe – pour Natalie, steak frite pour Rich, et salade de tomates pour Anouk…
A great time was had by all. For me this three-day trip was like a vacation from sabbatical, if that makes sense. I did not take a single note, did not speak into my recorder to capture a single detail, did not type a line, and asked only limited questions about tourism or fisheries. Instead, I enjoyed a few days in France in the company of new friends, and gathered through conversation and experience that St. Pierre, though very much France in the New World, is faced with similar issues that resource dependent cultures face the world over. Transitions and trepidations about the future are the norm. But the hiking is fantastic. The wine is pretty good too!
1 comment:
We just started The Tale of Two Cities in senior English this week. What a great delight to read you have spent some vacation time together in a country I spent the morning talking about! Thinking of all 3 of you, remembering a sleeping cherub by a campfire after some of us invaded Vermont and others stayed on land. Will miss that adventure this year but in my memory and thoughts I will paddle the waters, stop at the islands, and drink to the next adventure we get to share. All Our Best, Always.
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